archive of Articles and Blog posts

The following posts are segments and clippets from various internet sites that I've posted advice on throughout the years. I try to spread my words of wisdom anywhere I can. Occasionally I get email from readers asking for further advice. Other times people just drop me a note of thanks. Either way, I'm always glad to hear from my readers. Please enjoy the following pages, I've gotta get back down in my hole. People just keep on flushing, so I'm always busy down here.

-Dennis

Q: What is the going rate to dig a hole for a 1000 gallon septic tank? It would be 9 foot long, 6 foot wide, 6 foot tall. How much does it usually cost to get a hole dug for one of these?

A: I install septic tanks professionally, and have been asked this several times. I, however don't work as an excavation company for hire. The average homeowner doesn't possess the knowledge that years of experience can offer. There are many aspects to the proper installation of a septic tank and its components that won't be realized by most handymen until it's too late. More often than not, a self-installer will have incurred more expense than it would've had he/she just hired that contractor to do the job outright.

If you still feel compelled to take on this task, please do so using caution. Any excavation company you hire should be insured for the type of work they will be performing on your property. They should be able to provide a copy of their current policy as proof. Ask around the neighborhood or even a local hardware store, chances are someone knows a reputable contractor. If you end up digging this yourself (not advisable) like others have suggested, please be aware that buried utilities or other surprises could be waiting for you when you least expect it. In my area, it is against the law to dig into the earth without first contacting an agency to have utilities marked out. In New York we have a free service called "Dig Safely New York" formerly known as UFPO. I'm relatively sure this type of organization is available in other states and communities as well. I know this answer doesn't place a dollar amount to your question, but hopefully it will help you to make a well informed decision on what direction you go with this project.
-Good Luck
http://hunnywagon.com/advice.htm

Q: I would like a rough estimate on a leech field replacement? Septic tank is overflowing after just 3 month since it was emptied. My assumption is the liquids aren't draining out to the field. Does anyone know about how much it would cost in southeastern Wisconsin area?

A: There are way too many variables to give a definite answer to this question. Leach fields need to be designed to work in the soil conditions onsite. If the soil has a bad perk value, you may need a "raised bed" which will usually cost you about $15k to $20k in upstate NY. On the other hand, if the perk is good, you may be able to have a conventional system installed for $2000 to $4000 depending on the going rate in your region. You will likely have to get a few estimates and feel them out. Insurance and references should be high priority in your decision.

Now that I've answered the original question, let me just say that, self-diagnosing through assumption is not entirely recommended. It would be wise to have someone explore a bit to see if you actually need a leach field replacement or just a simple repair. Many times, I've found a plugged pipe just beyond the septic tank or a collapsed distribution box to be the cause of a homeowners woes. In such cases...
many thousands of dollars can be saved if your contractor is honest. <--- VERY IMPORTANT
-Good Luck
http://hunnywagon.com/advice.htm

Q: I've been told that my 900 gal septic tank is too small for my home. What are my options? I'm still having problems so I'm getting the tank pumped, then a new drain field put in. I cannot afford a new, larger tank. Is there any do it yourself options I can explore?

A: First, I'd like to answer your question and then I'll address the other "interesting" replies you've received so far. The average 3 bedroom house needs a 1000 gallon tank. Back in the 50's and 60's, smaller tanks down to 300 gal. were installed on a regular basis. 900 gal. isn't too small to be reasonably functional. Under normal use, your tank should be pumped every 3 to 5 years (not 5-7 or even 8 as others have suggested).

The one possible variable you don't mention is what your usage is. If you have more than 5 people living in the house, you will need to have your tank pumped more often. The number of bathrooms has little to do with anything nor does the amount of water you use. The tank only captures the solids you put down your waste drains. Excessive water usage will pass through into the leach field. That component needs to be of adequate size and configuration to handle your water usage. It sounds to me like your entire problem resides in the leach field. Once you have that squared away, you should only have to maintain your tank at regular intervals. "keep plenty of yeast in your tank or old beans or soured milk down the toilet" <-- funny stuff. Tina and others have the right idea here, bacteria is a good thing and you should be cautious of how much bleach you use. These Voo-doo additives are old wives-tales. There are no additives that will make your tank work better. Most retail additives will actually harm your leach field. Just normal use will do the job.
Good Luck
http://hunnywagon.com/advice.htm

Q: If one's septic tank is not cleaned, can this lead to the commode overflowing?

A: Yes, after a period of neglect ones commode will back up. This is a maintenance issue to be performed at regular intervals similar to having the oil changed in your vehicle. If you never change your oil, you eventually ruin your engine, thus causing expensive repairs or replacement. The same principle can be applied to your septic system. The time span between cleanings will vary with usage. A family of 5 hooked up to a 1000 gallon septic tank will typically need their tank serviced every 2 or 3 years. If you use enzyme products that claim to eat raw sewage (which is a ridiculous concept), you will eventually ruin whatever leaching system you have connected to the output side of the tank. Thousands of dollars and a huge headache to fix vs. a couple hundred and a minor odor for an hour to maintain. You decide ;)

Q: A septic guy told my mom that Rid-Ex is bad for the septic system. Is this true, or should I be dumping a box of this stuff each month?

A: Speaking from the perspective of professional in the field... I have worked as a septic pumper/installer for over 35 years. In my experience, I have ran across this question hundreds of times. Upon excavation of failed septic systems, we always obtain a background of past use and/or neglect. Rid-Ex has been one of the main culprits of numerous failed systems. I've said this before and I'll say it again: It's all a scam! There are many products purported to make a septic system work better. None are proven good, and many are proven bad. Why take a chance on any of it? The septic tank was invented in the 1860's and little has needed to be changed since. It has been discovered through the years that regular maintenance is the key to prolonging the life of a system. Just pump the tank out every 3 to 5 years. I pump tanks every day for $175, if you skip a few pumpings for a few years, you save a few hundred dollars. After Rid-Ex has collected their money from you and you still end up with a dark stinky wet spot in your lawn, you can still call me. I install septic systems from $3,500 to $18,000. You just can't undo that kind of damage (to your system, or your wallet). So, you can pay me now, or you can pay me later.

Q2: Thanks! What exactly does it do to mess things up, though?

A2: A brief description of a septic tank: Inside the tank there are composting layers of solids floating and sinking. The middle section is mostly water. The baffles retain the solids in the tank only allowing water to pass through into the leachfield area. Additive companies brag about reducing the frequent pumpouts. The products they offer actually mix the solids with the water, sending a slurry mix into your leachfield. The better the leachfield, the longer it will take, but eventually you will be calling a septic company in to dig a large portion of your lawn up. The "septic professional" (probably an actor) Rid-Ex uses in their TV commercials is an idiot.